Dead Man's Tales Chapter 16 My memories of Teluk Anson

True,very true -  I had actually left Teluk Anson.Perak for more half a century.So much has since then.I am going to write about these years drifted past during my time there.The present things only can represent today's Teluk Intan never Telok Anson.

Allow me to begin with the Perak River.To me it was the most beautiful river around .So very wide during high tide and at low  tide it narrowed down half its full size.It flows inland during high tide and towards its river mouth during low tide.It timing varies from time to time and extremely consistence.

It meanders gracefully like an ox bow around our town Teluk Anson.Providing the town with plenty of activities with high and low tides.Rural folks depended on it as their sole mean of transport to and fro town.It was very important to all the people as it also allowed food stuffs to be conveyed in it.Fishermen relied on it for shrimps and fish.It also was the home of many crocodiles.Many depended on  it for bathing and water supply.

Occasionally a life or two were lost in this river and it was rumoured it swallowed at least a life a year.But it was only a rumour no truth.That I think was to deter kids from playing along those dangerous river banks.We as kids learned to swim in it.Believe me it was pretty dangerous but we survived.It is definitely a wonderful place for retirement where you can do a lot of fishing.

Teluk Anson was once flooded as per history recorded in 1890s.Apparently the whole town was not spared at all.Thereafter  a bund with earth surrounding the town proper was built by its river bank.There were at least a dozen of water gates around town.These served to control the rising water especially during high tide.Most important to control the level of water in our drains during the rainy seasons towards the end of the year.

However,when as kids playing about near those river many of those bunds appeared to have lost its existence mainly due to erosion.Many of them flattened without maintenance. Perhaps those were already irelevent because no huge flood re-occurred again for nearly a century or so.The water gates were  useful only in controlling the high tide.

As kids we used to notice the rising tide because water do filled up our drains during high tide of the river.Presently those water gates were replaced with bigger and more efficient water gates.Of course,those of better designs.The question was the replacement done because those water gates of old were no longer dependable or operational???.

I do not think so.As per record the whole town was once again flooded after nearly a century.That was on 24th.Nov.1995.Almost the whole town were sub-merged in water.To me, should those old,old bunds been maintained possibly that flood would been reverted..History does repeat itself.You cannot take things for granted.It did not happened for so long does not mean it would not re-occurred again.The British were right in puttimg up that bund but we doubted them by not maintaining them.It was damn wrong.

The meandering river around town provided plenty of fertile land for the cultivation of green oranges.Especially those land by the river bank as it meanders around town.During our time Teluk Anson was famous for its sweet and big green oranges.Unfortunately,that good fortune was soon lost forever due mainly to a root disease which wiped out most the trees,It  further rendered the soil useless, no more viable for oranges cultivation.What a cruel fate dwelt on those farmers.

As kids we had the privilege of enjoying some of those oranges.Of course we never brought them neither do we had the money to do so.So all we did were  cycled  out of town into those oranges farm.Oranges were grown every where with only tiny path for peope to move about.So on sighting no one around all we had to do were just to stop our journey and began plucking at will as quickly as we could.But how many could we steal five or six that the most,.just enough to fill our bicycle's bag,Stolen fruits were never sweet but sour,believe me it was sour not sweet.

Teluk Anson was actually a major rubber and coconut producing state.In that there were large acreages of rubber all round Teluk Anson with  coconuts lining much of its river side land.There was also wharf about two miles up which catered for big ships to come to load and unload its goods.Those days tin from the Kinta valley also exported through here.Sad to admit this wharf had lost its importance presently turning it in a ghost ship yard.


All the old relics or old sight seeing scenes of  of Telok Anson.It was constructed in 1885. The leaning of the tower began some years later fortunately it did not collapsed then.It remained as it was till today,what a fantastic achievement by it.Until lately,  no one then were interested in the tower and actually left to rot.Only a small group of sea scouts had their meeting place there at their own risk.

Why?Because the planks of all its flooring were actually rotting away.There were awkward lines of holes in between all those timber.Those planks might give way any time but those handful of scouts still used it.They have to because they had no where to go to.That was why?.No one had attempted to maintain it and I think many a times some people had passed the hat round to collect funds  but somehow it all ended in zero.

The time that clock kept was inaccurate but while it stood there many still depended on it for telling the time.In actual fact that tower was an abandoned water storage tank for the town and had been  neglected because Telok Anson had a new water storage reservoir at the 9th,mile Changkat Jong Road. 

My mother used to run a coffee stall under the tower along Canal Road.in 1954.That was why I have knowledge about that clock tower.Those days coffee stalls with attractive waitresses waiting on customers were popular .In my mother's employment were two lovely women.Most of the evening my brother and I would be there studying under the street lamp and watching the world go by. 

The compound of the tower was fenced up but everyone cold easily gain access through the front gate.It was never locked.Our stall was outside the fenced area. along Canal road.During the Japanese occupation they made that their head quarters.On the vey top floor the roofing was removed and big gins mounted on for their own protections and shoot down enemies' approaching planes if any.It also acted as a watch tower,keeping  eyes for ships coming in from the river mouth. 

It was rumored that the Japanese also tortured and slaughtered many of their enemies and spies there.The Japanese were ruthless and cruel, they simply murdered many without trails whatsoever.Should someone who do not like you, point you out to them as a spy then you could easily end up being beheaded by them.We had an uncle who was beheaded just because he looked better and taller than most of them.Those were the days of the Japanese occupation. 

He clock tower had a long history behind it.Well it is good some one had taken the interest to have it renovated to its present state - a heritage well saved.It is a must visit sight of Teluk Intan .Another sight worth remembering was Batu Tenggek,a 1st World War  memorial put there by the British.On it were inscribed as follows:-

                  At the going down f the sun and in the morning
                                  We would remember you
                                          1914   -   1918

  As kids my brother and I were informed that the stone was actually no bigger than a match box initially  and had since grew up to  that size we now see.Of that was no truth whatsoever in this.Some one 's practical joke on us.When we saw it the first time the place was well maintained but sadly not now.I remembered the Government club house behind that stone.That  was now demolished.

Not far on is the Protestant Church which was green in colour but now transformed to dark brown I think some body up there liked choacolate.Farther down at the other end laid the Catholic Church,St.Anthony School and the Convent School.

The most famous road those days was Anson Road the road on which we once dwelt when we were kids.A stone's throw from our house was the Anglo Chinese School.It is still there and I think that that our heritage despite its changed in named Anglo Chinese no more existed but the buildings remained as in tact with little renovations under a different  name we never knew.Or at least I do not know. 

 Opposite was the general hospital but the hospital had been transferred to Changkat Jong road and now the whole structures had been demolished for good.This road is nostagic to me for we had very fond memories of it.Farther down that road was the dohbi gnat  where most of the town's dirty linen were washed by Indian washers.

At the end of that road once laid loads and loads of river sand to be sold for constructions.That place was called Durian Sabatang.That was because a sole durian tree there that time,thus its name.Actually I had not seen that durian tree at all neither did most folksDuring the old days huge boats (all man rowed boats)  would take their boats following the low tides flowing down stream.

They would guide those boats towards the river banks of the other side where the clean river sand were in abundance.When the tide had resided sufficiently those men would load the sand to fill up those boats.Then they would wait for the high tide to come in to  lift up their loaded boat once again. With that they rowed their boats with the assistants of the rising water back to that end of Durian Sabatang.

The high tide also gave them the level they needed to unload their sand .On completing they would parked their boats away from those spots.I knew this because I had the privilege of following them once.I think I was about ten then.There was also a small jetty farther down.It catered for ferries ferrying rural folks from the other side of the river 

What ever produce they had were  also send through this jetty to town.Those days lorries were little known.Transportation of their produced were transported by hand pulled carts.As kids we used to watch very strong men pulling those carts to market.There would also be an assistant pushing from behind to ease their burden.Most of their produced were vegetables,melons,sugar  canes and at times durians.Pigs,chickens and ducks were also among their produced.

 That jetty those days was so simple beside dangerous yet it catered for for so many.Compared to today's jetty so magnificiently constructed  but with so few people using it.These days modern transport had taken over so everything eased down.But I still do not understand why spent so much on something that had lost its importance or usage - already?For a new heritage????. My good ness.Or just to allow some retired folks to fish for shrimps??.

Further up the road from the school is the Indian temple called the Sri Subramainam temple.This temple was constructed by the Chettiars (money lenders) in 1926. From there on wards were a row of shop houses mostly occupied by such people.During our time there many of them about but today there are lesser in numbers.

Come April or so there would be a Hindu celebration of the temple whereby hosts of Indians from every where would joined in for the celebration.It used to be a three days affair.Those days we would find Indians every where and they would stayed until the festival was over,sleeping on five foot way and every they can secured a shelter 

We really enjoyed the first morning of their celebrations whereby devotees went into a trance after a bath in the river.In trance most of those devotees were pierced with all sort of needles big and small ,long and short,many a times with weights and ,lemons etc. attached at the ends.Seemingly quite scary.With that on they danced towards the temple with followers chanting prayers as they went.

We as kids simply loved to follow them as they chanted their prayers.Followed by shouts of"Wai,wai..... alogra"in unison by supporters all round.That was really good fun.This would go in until mid day or so.With that ended most would be left paying their homages ti their Hindu gods.

Around the surroundings of the temples would be many sheds plying their trades but mostly Indian stuffs.The celebration would end on the 3rd day evening's with a bullock  driven chariot carrying the Hindu god round town.Praying at the front of houses of devotees as they passed by.At each house they prayed coconuts were smashed into pieces.Finally the chariot  would returned to the temple.

After those Chettiars shop lots is the other end of the market.It faces the side of the  clock tower actually though there were coffee shop in front of it then. In our days at this end there were many sundry stalls and the midst of this were the fruit sellers from the kampongs .Kampongs used to bring in their produces there,Mostly local fruits such as pineapples,coconuts  and others.

Finally further down there was the side of the town police station ,located at the turn of the road and we reached the other end of Anson Road.Thus the road joined the same Perak river as it meanders round town.It was quite convenient to lodge any reports then but today you need to travel a lot further down to road to Changkat Jong Road.There you are we have the two ends of Anson Road fifty years ago.Looking at it today there were vast differences.

The market presently had been renovated with many changes. but its size remained as it was - no bigger.This market had also been  a place the Japanese tortured and chopped off the heads of many.It was therefore believe that it was haunted by many headless ghosts.I wander whether those ghosts still wonder around to frighten people? 

There is a Chinese temple by the riverside,the Hock Soon Temple built in 1883.Every year in October  there was celebration for the nine Emperor god by the Hokkien .Before there was a road in front of that temple.Today I think that road and part of the temple had been eroded away,despite all efforts to stop it,but failed miserably.The flow of the river  were simply too strong to be with held.

Talking about haunted house there were at least three of them in town those days.The Raja Muda residence along the side Raja Musa road  was a sight to behold in our days.Our secondary school was situated directly behind it.  Apparently it was  left neglected or attended in ruins for some time-turning it into a ghost house.Presently that was already demolished but the vast compound it covered remained glassily intact.

Another known haunted house was the Woo Saik Hong Mansion at the corner of Speedy road.It is still there intact.So ghost busters why not check on it?A stone throw away from this haunted house by the side of Speedy Road playing field was a drone.A circular concrete structure which could served as a resting place for players and others .It was built by a group of Ceylonese for what do not know,maybe in remembrance of their presence,.

The third haunted building was the one bungalow along Batah Rabbit Road facing the river.A colonial bungalow but it was now demolished,The list can go on and on I tell you.Maybe one of these days I should go down to take photographs of all existing ghost houses of Teluk Intan and post it my blog - for the benefit of all or to ghost busters..

Another place to remember of old Teluk Anson was the sight where a huge bull elephant was crushed to death. It was standing aloft on the railway track facing against the on coming train.Apparently it was protecting its herd against the onslaught of the iron horse which rammed into it without mercy,killing it instantly.

The then Authorities erected a sign there in remembrance of its bravery.This sight could be located not far the Sungai Nibong Railway bridge.It was on the left hand side of the railway track.Presently there is a road running there I think. I wonder the sign is still in tact there?.That incident happened on the 17th.Sept.1894,more than a century ago. 

There have been quite a lot of publications about its  food claiming this and that.Those were food representing today. Sad to say none of those depicted matched the food in the fifties or sixties and no where near them.Take "Chee Cheong Fun"for example.The famous 'Chee Cheong Fun" is more there it was never like that.That is the new look and the tastes...blah ....blah.....blah you called those Teluk Anson "Chee Cheong Fun"?  

Far from it,man,sorry that was never it...Sometimes in Kepong market,Kuala Lumpur I had come across a  hawker trying to make the old type which I think were more representative of the old "chee Cheong Fun" than those existing in Teluk Intan toady.However the tastes were still off target,but it was at least a good try.Does bring back a lot Nostalgia.

Cannot blamed present people as most of the "Chee Cheong Fun" were factory made,for quick profits.Those days in the fifties the gluttonese rice sold were very good.Oily and hot - going with very nice roast port.To day we can no more see them around even in Teluk Intan..

The curry mee those days were very good  with red hot curry that came in at fifteen or twenty cents per bowl.To think of them makes my mouth watered but sadly today's standard were no where near them So were the "Assam Laksa". Oh yes,I loved  those days "Char Koay Teoh" too. All yummy yummy.I think the  cooking with wood made the difference in their tastes.Well you all not necessary to believe what I said.But I meant what I said.

I also missed those days soup makers.Those 'makmak" really knew how to boil good tasty  soups.May those be beef shavings,goat's head and legs or chicken soups they were so good and came cheaply.Also at fifteen to twenty cents per bowl.Imagine those soups were bowl with bits and bits shavings of goat or buffalo it still tasted that good .

Unlike today,the "makmak" dumped or lumped all the chicken,mutton and beef together in to boil at one go.Very unethical indeed.As such they served none beef consumers the same soup when they actually ordered for chicken or mutton soup.I mean there was no distinction or difference.To me it was a total betrayal of trust by customers. 

Although they boiled every things together,their soup still did not attained the same results as those of yester years.Besides,quite unhygenic because they would cut the already cooked meat as per order.Chicken for chicken soup,mutton for mutton soup and beef for beef soup.The handling with unclean hands usually.

Those days there was also an old Javanese man selling very good Javanese "mee rebus".He used to ply his trade on a bicycle but he usually could be located at the bus station.His mee was then very famous ,both tasty and cheap..It was from him that the present day "mee rebus" existed.Of course his decendants now sell their "mee rebus" from shops.

Say what you may but all the food today are not what they claimed to be I assure you all.To day's food do not taste as before,beside more expensive.Time had really transformed all these old,old food..It is really very sad indeed for them to have induced such  drastic changes. Much could be attributed to men' s greed for bigger and faster returns.

Beside  most of them had lost their dignities in supplying substandard and adulterated food to the public.As long as they could make the extra  profits they could not careless - that were their attitude.The older generations who produced those good food were all dead and gone but as they left many did not passed on their skills and knowledge on to their children or disciples.Many younger people might  had found it too simple thus never bother to learn those skills properly.